Subtle displays of Craftsmanship, “Quiet Luxury” and the expression of Style
Stitching: A Subtle Display of Craftsmanship, Style and Luxury
When it comes to leather work, one of the most distinguishing features of skilled craftsmanship lies in the stitching (this is equally true for edges - but that is another post). Stitching has a functional benefit and delivers unique aesthetic that can only be achieved with the right tools and the right skills.
Beyond its functional role of securing leather together, stitch positioning—particularly around corners—act as a subtle display of skill and artistry. Leather workers have developed a variety of stitching techniques, each with its own aesthetic, functional benefits, and challenges. Embedded within this is a subtle unspoken social code, a signal to those who recognise and respect fine craftmanship.
On one hand, stitching is a hallmark of the skill and precision required to craft the piece. On the other, it serves as a nod to those who appreciate the rare and the refined—an unspoken connection among those who value true craftsmanship.
Contrast Stitching on the top panel of a bag [Kangaroo Leather]
One example that has stood the test of time is the tailored suit. A well-tailored suit catches the eye without demanding attention. Its impact is subtle, yet undeniable.
It stands out for seemingly imperceptible reasons. Yet upon closer inspection, it is the harmony of its elements—the way the fabric drapes, the precision of measuring and cutting, the skillful manipulation of textiles, and the small but meaningful touches, like hand-stitched buttonholes. Each of these choices reflects the tailor’s vision, knowledge, and problem-solving, culminating in a garment that feels effortless yet is anything but.
In a world of fast fashion and mass production, customization and craftsmanship have become the hallmarks of quiet luxury. Here, value is not defined by logos or status symbols, but by the skill of the artisan, the integrity of materials, and the time-honored techniques used to shape them.
Stitching is but one element that embodies this principle—that true craftsmanship is not about being noticed by everyone, but about being understood by the few who truly appreciate it - It is something you feel as much as you see.
Machine Vs Handstitching - Craftsmanship in contrast
Machine Stitching has an extremely important place in any and all sewing. Anyone who has used a sewing machine knows they require skill and knowledge! I’ve been sewing garments for over 30 years as a hobby, including completing a professional garment making course and my skills do not even come CLOSE to a skilled machine technician! (though I sincerely wish they did) A skilled machine technician can manipulate materials impressively, but there are often small inherent trade-offs in the automation of the process, removing certain aspects from the craftsperson’s direct control.
Precision and Control
In machine stitching, stitch length is set beforehand and remains uniform, which creates consistency—but sometimes, control over exact stitch placement is more valuable. Leather is cut to precise dimensions, and stitches must be positioned at an optimal distance from the edge. If a stitch sits too close to the edge (or on the edge), it weakens the leather, allowing moisture to seep in and increasing the risk of tearing.
Hand stitching allows an artisan to position each stitch hole with meticulous precision, ensuring optimal durability, alignment and distancing. While machines can replicate the top side of the saddle stitch (a stitching technique commonly used but artisan leather workers), it cannot replicate the beautiful angled stitches on the bottom side.
This is not a problem when the bottom side is hidden, however, often in leathercraft, both sides are visible, thus hand stitching remains the best choice.
Custom Tool Case for Pricking Irons (with Toad Skin Inlay): an example of when we want to showcase both sides of the stitch
Durability & Strength
Machine stitching uses a lockstitch, where the top thread loops with the bobbin thread underneath. This structure creates a potential failure point: if one stitch breaks, the tension is lost, and the seam can unravel. Similar to the stitch length, the thread tension is set prior to sewing and thus ‘automated.’
In contrast, hand stitching—particularly saddle stitching—passes two needles through the same hole from opposite sides, forming a stronger interlocking structure. Even if one stitch breaks, the rest remain secure. Furthermore, the crafts person control the tension and exact positioning of each and every stitch. This is why saddle-stitched leather goods last for decades, even with heavy use.
Although this video is quite long, unless you’re interested in learning how to do the stitch I recommend starting at 03:00. The use of perspex was an excellent idea to clearly demonstrate the stitch here.
Aesthetic & Craftsmanship
Machines pierce leather by force, often punching a round hole in the leather, although specialised machine needles can be used to create more a diamond, thus slanted hole. By contrast, a pricking iron’s tip is very fine, and separate the leather rather than punching through it, thus creating less damage to the leather.
The top grain (or ‘skin side’) of the leather is the strongest and most resistant to wear, tear and moisture. By creating holes in the leather, we create a ‘weak point’ where moisture can enter. The separation caused by pricking irons result in a finer incision than a machine stitch; leather fibres relax with time (and manipulation) thus the finer incision, the easier it is to ‘close’ this tightly around the thread and regaining the structural integrity of the surface of the leather.
Beyond the technical advantages, hand stitching reflects a level of intention and artistry that machines cannot replicate—a hallmark of craftsmanship recognized by those who appreciate fine details.
Other things of note…
With hand stitching you can get in to places with your fingers that you could never with a machine (ninja stitches!) - and that includes cylinder arm machines!
The aesthetic of the stitch is partly determined by the quality and specifications of the tools used. French Pricking Irons, Diamond Chisel, Japanese Style Chisel and Role Hole Chisels are example of different tools that serve different purposes, and achieve different results.
This video is a good one that goes over the basics, without being overly detailed…
The stitch pattern produced with French Pricking Irons are most indicative of artisan leather work. They do less damage to the leather, close up well afterwards, and look good.
The quality of the finished look is determined by the tools that you use. French pricking irons' steeply angled tips are a more difficult tool to make, requiring skill and careful engineering. In this way, the tool itself becomes a mark of craftsmanship, directly influencing the quality of the finished piece and underscoring the dedication to excellence that defines artisan leather work.
The practical benefits of the resulting stitch add further strength, however, to understand why we need to dig a little deeper…
Hole Shape and Friction - A little further down the rabbit hole…
When hand stitching leather, the shape of hole directly affects seam strength. In general, seams made with angled holes (pricking irons) are stronger than those made with round holes.
The rock climbers, sailors, and surgeons among us will already know why, but for the rest of us: angled holes increase friction, create a locking effect on the thread, and add more tension—making the stitch more secure.
Round Holes
Create a straight path for the thread, meaning the only friction comes from the thread rubbing against the hole’s walls. This allows the stitch to move more freely, which can weaken the seam over time—as the holes widen under strain, the stitches may loosen.
Additionally, depending on stitch placement, round holes can act as perforation points, potentially weakening the leather rather than reinforcing it.
Angled Holes (typically 45° or 60°)
force the thread to bend as it passes through, increasing friction and creating a natural locking effect.
The steeper the angle, the greater the friction, making the stitch more stable and less likely to slip.
As a result, seams made with angled holes are 10-30% stronger than those with round holes, assuming the same materials and stitching technique.
Saddle stitching is a hand-sewing method often paired with angled holes, where two needles pass through the same hole from opposite sides, creating a stronger, interwoven structure.
This technique amplifies the friction created by angled holes, further reinforcing the seam. The mechanical locking effect is most noticeable on the back of the stitch, where properly tensioned threads sit "invisibly" within the hole. This prevents slippage and enhances durability.
In contrast, machine stitches (lockstitches) lack this interwoven structure, making them more prone to unraveling if a thread breaks.
Finally, the stitches are set in place using a polished hammer. This technique flattens the stitch without damaging the thread, closing any remaining gaps. This helps return the leather to its original position and prevents moisture from seeping in - a crucial detail for increasing long-term durability.
The end result is a seam with 20-40% greater strength than one made with round holes (ceteris paribus).
This added strength translates into greater durability; guaranteeing longevity while embodying the core values of artisan craftsmanship, where precision, technique, and quality combine to create products that are both luxurious and timeless.
The composition, construction, and thickness of the thread matters. As does the type and weight of the leather, amongst other factors. However, that is an entirely other branch of the rabbit hole and it’s about time we came back to where this post was originally leading to and that is stitch positioning, sharp corners and how this display of craftsmanship signals quality, quiet luxury and style.
Stitch positioning and corners
Nothing draws the eye like a uneven stitch. A misplaced stitch disrupts the visual rhythm, much like a missed note in a symphony. The goal is to create an ASMR-like effect for the brain, where every element feels balanced, intentional, and harmonious.
Example of an uneven stitch throwing out the aesthetics of a line of even stitches
Stitch placement on a hard angle (e.g. 90 degrees) vs a curved edge put an artisans precision to the test. While poor stitch placement can create structural weak points, corner stitching is also a showcase of skill. With that said, stitch positioning is largely a matter of choice; its just that some of these choices are more difficult to execute than others, hence it’s one area of a good that the artisan can showcase their accuracy & precision.
These details—almost imperceptible to the untrained eye—contribute to a piece’s exclusivity, refinement, and premium quality. And in turn, they subtly reflect the owner's own appreciation for craftsmanship and quiet luxury.
Although round edges are a functional choice that improves durability of some goods (such as a bi-fold wallet that is slid in an out of pockets regularly), right-angle corners deliver a crisp, bold, and structured which may suit a look that is more modern or professional in design.
While much of the leg work has been done by various others before me, I struggled to fine one single source that contained all the of the following example of undesirable vs potentially good stitch positioning. I say “potentially good” because at the end of day, as long as the quality and strength of the finished good is maintained, stitch positioning is the artisans aesthetic choice - as much as it is an opportunity to show off their skills.
The decisions around stitch positioning fall into two main categories: where to place the hole and what shape or angle it should take. While some styles are more visually striking, others demand greater precision and technical consideration. As previously discussed, the master artisan often chooses the most challenging path to highlight their expertise—an approach that resonates with customers who value skill, precision, and the quiet luxury it represents.
Approach 1: A Weak Point to Avoid
Here, the pricking irons have been positioned into the top corner. This results in an overly visible hole that compromises both aesthetics and structure.
The tension of the threads pulls the leather apart, while the shape of the hole forces both threads into the bottom corner, creating an entry point for moisture and a structural weakness. The first horizontal stitch out of the corner appears unnaturally straight, disrupting the visual flow of angled stitches. The final result doesn't showcase the refinement we seek in high-end leather goods.
Approach 2: Changing hole type
One solution is to maintain the hole’s position but switch to a smaller round hole, ensuring the thread fills it completely and preventing leather separation. While this approach emphasizes the structural integrity of the piece, the straight stitch coming out of the corner becomes even more noticeable, disrupting the aesthetic flow. While many artisans accept this trade-off, others will seek an alternative solution.
Approach 3: Eliminating corner hole
I came across the this technique a few years ago, and although it appeared to address the previous issues, in practice, it merely created new ones. This approach involves using a two-prong pricking iron at a 45-degree angle to align stitches evenly on either side of the corner. This method distributes stress across the corner, but introduces another issue—two visibly straight stitches, one horizontal and one vertical. Additionally, both ‘corner’ holes are being ‘pulled’ in sub optimal directions, as seen in a) below.
Example: Eliminating corner hole & a better application for the technique
An improved variation involves using a two-prong iron to lightly mark the stitch placement before applying longer irons along only two axes. This adjustment eliminates straight stitches, though one hole is still subtly affected by thread tension. Realistically, this method works best on rounded edges(see b) above), where each stitch hole on the curve is set individually, using a single prong iron along the curve’s tangent for optimal alignment.
Approach 4: Towards Precision
Example 4a: Light Marking
The final approach I will include combines the previous insights regarding stitch hole positioning, hole type and the direction of the angle of the thread to create a more precise and aesthetically pleasing stitch line. It starts similarly to the first method, but rather than punch through, the surface of the leather is very lightly marked.
The prongs are then moved “backwards” a stitch and marked more firmly. The lightly marked stitch hole can then be used as guide to place the bottom of the pricking irons (aligned horizontally) in the bottom corner of the lightly marked hole.
The rationale here is that the created with a saddle stitch is that the thread always goes down through the leather at the bottom of the angled hole, and up through the leather at the top of the angled hole. By carefully placing the irons along the intended thread path, we achieve consistent angles, precise spacing, and evenly tensioned stitches. The result is a crisp, uninterrupted stitch line that balances strength with aesthetic refinement.
Example 4b
However… one ‘weakness’ remains: The corner stitch pulls directly in line with the angle of the hole, which (when under tension) may further increase the size of this hole.
Although I have learned another approach that addresses this fully, this was learned in the paid setting of a workshop and classes and is thus in no way appropriate for me to disclose here.
My intention here is not to outline the single most accurate or precise way of deciding where to place stitches, but rather to explore the intentions and principles that underpin intentional craftsmanship.
This philosophy aligns with the values of discerning customers who appreciate the artistry behind their purchases. Every stitch becomes a testament to the artisan’s dedication, reinforcing the idea that true luxury is not about excess but about the mastery and effort woven into each detail.
In this way, the artisan’s choices not only define the quality of the finished piece but also shape the customer’s own expression of style—subtle, sophisticated, and deeply personal.
The Underlying Message: Mastery, Luxury, and Individual Expression
True craftsmanship is not just about construction—it is about intention. The precision of each stitch, the decision of where and how to place it, and the skill required to execute it all contribute to a piece that is more than well-made; it is an expression of mastery.
For those who recognize it, this level of craftsmanship speaks volumes. It signals an appreciation for the finer details, for quiet luxury that does not rely on logos or mass appeal but instead on the integrity of its construction. A well-placed stitch is not just about durability; it is a marker of skill, patience, and artistry—something that can be felt as much as seen.
There is no single ‘right’ way—only choices, each demanding a level of precision that few possess. And in those choices lies the essence of true luxury: the unspoken language of craftsmanship, where refinement and effort come together to create something both timeless and deeply personal.
"Every stitch tells a story. Make sure yours speaks well of you."
